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Gray hair in midlife: why it happens and your options

Gray hair is caused mainly by age and genes, as the pigment stem cells in hair follicles are used up or stop working. Nothing proven reverses it yet, so the practical choices are coloring, gray blending or going gray.

See a doctor if gray hair appears very early or suddenly, or white patches appear on your skin. Also mention graying that comes with tiredness or other new symptoms. These can point to vitamin B12 deficiency, thyroid problems or vitiligo.

What it is and how common it is

Hair turns gray when the follicle stops adding pigment (melanin) to new hair. Each hair changes on its own, so gray spreads gradually.

Graying starts at about age 34 on average in white people and about 44 in Black people.1 An old rule says half of people are half gray by 50. A large worldwide survey found that only about 6% to 23% reach that point by 50.1

So by menopause some gray is normal, but the amount varies a lot from woman to woman.

Why it happens

Graying is driven mostly by age and genes, not by menopause itself.1 The two often arrive at the same stage of life, so they are easy to link.

Pigment comes from melanocyte stem cells in the hair follicle. Over the years these cells are used up or damaged. Oxidative stress plays a part: gray follicles build up hydrogen peroxide and have fewer protective enzymes.1

A 2023 study in Nature from NYU Langone added a new idea. In mice, these stem cells normally move between two parts of the follicle. With repeated hair cycles, more of them get stuck where they do not receive the signals that tell them to make pigment.2,3

In aged mice, the share of follicles with stuck cells rose from about 15% to nearly half.2 The researchers think freeing these cells might one day prevent graying. This has not been tested in people.2,3

What else can cause it

Gray hair at the usual age does not need tests. Early or sudden graying is worth raising with a doctor, because it has been linked to:1

  • vitamin B12 deficiency, including pernicious anemia
  • thyroid problems
  • vitiligo, which also causes white patches of skin
  • some autoimmune conditions
  • low copper, iron, zinc or vitamin D
  • some medicines, such as certain chemotherapy drugs and the antimalarial chloroquine
  • smoking

Everyday measures

Since gray cannot yet be reversed, the practical choices are about how you want it to look.

  • Gray blending. Lowlights or a sheer tint soften gray into your natural color instead of hiding every strand. Regrowth lines are less obvious.
  • Gentler dyes. Semi-permanent dyes, glosses and some PPD-free options are easier on a sensitive scalp, though they cover gray less fully. Our guide to PPD-free hair dye for gray hair compares them.
  • Patch test every time. Dye allergies can appear after years of trouble-free use, so follow the patch test on the pack.
  • Going gray. Some women grow out their color, often with a shorter cut or blending to ease the change.
  • Not smoking. Smoking is linked with earlier graying.1

Gray hair can feel coarser or drier, so a moisturizing conditioner may help it look smoother.

What helps: options rated

OptionEvidenceWhat the research shows
Hair color and gray blendingSome evidenceCovers or softens gray in a way you can see, though it has not been studied in trials. It hides gray rather than changing how hair grows, and permanent dyes can cause allergy.
Anti-gray cosmetic actives (Greyverse, Darkenyl)Weak evidenceTheir makers report less gray hair in their own studies.4,5 Trade press reports gave no volunteer numbers, and we found no independent trials.
Treating a deficiency or thyroid problemWeak evidenceB12 deficiency and thyroid disease are linked with early graying.1 Treating them matters for your health, but do not expect it to reverse age-related gray.
Stopping smokingWeak evidenceStudies link smoking with premature graying, likely through oxidative damage.1 There are no trials showing that quitting restores color.
Stem cell treatmentsNo evidenceThe 'stuck stem cell' research was done in mice. No treatment based on it has been tested in people.2,3

Ratings explained: how we rate. Always talk to a doctor or pharmacist before starting a medicine or supplement.

Related

Sources

  1. Kumar AB, Shamim H, Nagaraju U. Premature graying of hair: review with updates, International Journal of Trichology (2018)
  2. NYU Langone news release on melanocyte stem cells and gray hair (Nature study), ScienceDaily (2023)
  3. Study: 'Stuck' stem cells turn hair gray, Modern Aesthetics (2023)
  4. Has Lucas Meyer cracked the secret to reversing grey hair?, CosmeticsDesign (2018)
  5. Givaudan Active Beauty reverses hair ageing with Darkenyl, Cosmetics Business (2018)